Search
Close this search box.

Rolex Watches: History, Collections, Pricing, & Separating Fact From Fiction

Get to know the brand that started from humble beginnings to now being the largest luxury watch brand in the world. Discover everything Rolex from their history, modern watches, pricing, and even separating common fact from fiction.

Rolex is a leading Swiss luxury watch manufacture, located in Geneva Switzerland. Since the founding of Rolex in 1905, the brand has been committed to excellence, craftsmanship, and accuracy. For over a century Rolex has stayed true to these tenants, which has elevated them to the largest luxury watchmaker in the world.

Foundational collections from Rolex include the Submariner, Datejust, Daytona, and GMT Master II, Day-Date, Sea-Dweller, and Explorer. Each of these collections are icons within the watchmaking community, which are often imitated by other watchmakers.

Rolex watches are well known to be durable, accurate, and crafted to perfection. Their commitment to excellence is why it is common to see 50+ year old Rolex watches in perfect condition.

The market has reward Rolex with being the pinnacle of all the luxury watch brands. Rolex is in a very enviable position, they simply can’t produce enough watches to satisfy demand. Rolex authorized dealers rarely have watches in their stores and almost every reference has a lengthly waitlist to purchase.

The history of Rolex

Since Rolex’s inception in 1905, the brand has stood as a beacon of Swiss watchmaking excellence, always innovating and pushing horological technology to the limits. Beginning as a small watchmaking company in London, Rolex’s unwavering commitment to innovation, craftsmanship, and durability laid the path to global dominance.

The story of Rolex begins with Hans Wilsdorf, a young entrepreneur who actually had no knowledge of watchmaking. He considered himself a businessman with an acute sense of marketing. Wilsdorf recognized that there was potential within the watchmaking industry and set off on his journey. In 1905, 24 year old Wilsdorf founded Wilsdorf and Davis, which was a company that focused on the distribution of watches. In the 1920’s there were a limited number of wrist watches but they were considered more like art and were extremely fragile. This is where Wilsdorf saw the potential to change an industry. Motivated by precision, functionality, and elegance, Wilsdorf sought to create wristwatches that were not only stylish but also durable.

In 1926, the young entrepreneur’s relentless drive and ambition led to a groundbreaking achievement, which was the creation of the Oyster watch. This would be the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. This set a new standard for watchmaking and established Rolex as a leader within the industry. It’s hard to imagine that it took all the way until the 1920’s to create a waterproof wristwatch but Wilsdorf did it. This is emblematic for the brand overall. Rolex isn’t known for being unique, they are known for doing the simple things to perfection.

The next leap in Rolex watchmaking technology came in 1931. Up until that time, all wrist and pocket watches were manually wound. This means that owners had to turn the crown each day to keep the time running. All of that changed with the invention the Perpetual movement. For the first time, a watch could wind itself with the use of kinetic energy and gravity. A rotor was introduced to the movement that would spin around during normal wear, thus keeping the main hairspring coiled through perpetual motion providing power to the watch.

In an era where people actually needed watches to perform tasks, Rolex had the reputation for being the tool watch of choice. In 1953 Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay climbed Mount Everest wearing Rolex Oyster Perpetual chronometers. This historic feat further solidified Rolex’s reputation as a symbol of resilience and achievement.

The next great leap for Rolex came in 1953 with the introduction of the Rolex Submariner. At the time, the Submariner was revolutionary, specifically designed for underwater exploration. The Submariner’s robustness, the first wristwatch to be rated water-resistant up to 100 meters (330 feet), and functional design quickly made it a favorite among divers, ocean explorers, and adventures. Jacques Cousteau, the pioneer in marine exploration and ocean conservation at the time, publicly favored the Submariner boosting this icons watches exposure and credibility.

Rolex collections & iconic models

Rolex Submariner

Rolex Submariner Review

The Rolex Submariner is considered the best dive watch of all time. Ever since it’s introduction in 1953, very little has changed in design, which is a testament to how functional yet sporty the Submariner is. Modern Rolex Submariners, which were updated in 2020, have a 41mm case that has a 300m water resistance rating. Powering the Submariner is either the 3230 or 3235 automatic in-house calibres with a 70 hour power reserve. Like all Rolex watches, accuracy with the Submariner is precise with +2/-2 seconds per day.

Rolex Submariners are available in about a dozen configurations that include the option of a date complication, bezel colors, and material that include yellow gold and stainless steel.

There is no better everyday watch than the Submariner. It has the specs to handle almost every environment, comfortable enough to never take off, and built to last. The Submariner is the perfect watch for a one watch collection or someone who is looking to purchase a luxury dive watch that will outlive them.

Specs

Case Diameter: 41mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3230 (no date) & 3235 (date)
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

For a full list of Rolex Submariner pricing, view our Complete Rolex Pricing Guide.

Rolex Datejust

Rolex Datejust Collection

The Rolex Datejust might be the most iconic and recognizable watch within all the Rolex collections. Many may be surprised to read this but Rolex manufactures more Datejusts on average than any other collections. Over the years, the Datejust has provided a simple yet timeless design that has captivated those who are often in formal settings or those who want to be seen with a Rolex. Notable features of the Rolex Datejust are the fluted bezel, jubilee bracelet, and cyclops date at the 3 o’clock position.

What makes the Rolex Datejust such a great watch is that every part of it is configurable. This includes the bezel, bracelet, dial, indices, materials, and case size. Although there are some favorite combinations like reference 126333, you’ll be hard pressed to find multiple of the same configurations out in the wild.

Something else to note about the Datejust is that it is one of a few watches that depending on it’s configuration, can be both a perfect fit for casual and formal situations. Overall it is such a versatile luxury watch that brings such a timeless and elegant design that will be a favorite for many years to come.

Specs

Case Diameter: 41, 36, & 31mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3235 (41 & 36mm) & 2236 (31mm)
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Datejust References

Rolex GMT Master II

Rolex GMT Master II Root Beer 126711CHNR Review

If you are looking for the perfect travel companion watch, look no further than the Rolex GMT Master II. This watch has been navigating the skies with airline pilots and business travelers since 1954. Fast forward to modern times, the Rolex GMT Master II has been fitted with new watch making technology and available materials but the same basic design elements remain. Today’s GMT Master II watches are 40mm in diameter and powered by the 70 hour power reserve in-house calibre 3285.

Some Rolex watches are so popular that they earn nicknames. It seems like virtually all modern Rolex GMT Master watches released have been blessed with this honor. These references have earned nicknames that mostly seem to be derived mostly from soda’s;

Specs

Case Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3285
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex GMT Master II References

Rolex Daytona

Rolex Daytona Collection Overview

One of the hardest watches to acquire in the world is a stainless steel Rolex Daytona. The entire Rolex Daytona collection is revered by many watch collectors and is considered a grail watch by many. Admittedly, Rolex produces far fewer Daytonas watches than other collections. This scarcity plus the ego involved in collecting Rolex watches has propelled the demand for these watches to new heights. Often pre-owned price at 1.5-2x retail.

Set aside the hype and the Daytona is still an amazing watch. This three register chronograph measures up to 12 hours at a time and is powered by the impressive 4131 in-house calibre automatic movement. Accuracy is king for performance chronographs and the Superlative Chronometer certified Rolex Daytona can boast a +2/-2 second per day precision.

There are many available configurations for the Daytona with multiple material options such as steel, yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum being available. There are even exotic materials such as meteorite dials available for certain references. Almost just like the Datejust, there are certainly many different combinations for the versatile Rolex Daytona collection.

These watches are not easy to get a hold of so if you ever get the opportunity at a good price, consider acquiring it because you may not get the same offer again.

Specs

Case Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 4131
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Daytona References

Rolex Explorer

Rolex Explorer Collection Overview

The most adventurous collection within Rolex is the Explorer. In fact, it was the Rolex Explorer that was the watch of choice for Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay when they famously climbed Mt. Everest in 1953. The spirit of the Rolex Explorer is different than many of the other collections. This one is far less flashy and quite often goes unnoticed on peoples wrist. With the Explorer flying under the radar and being built to handle the extremes, this makes it one of the most compelling tool watches.

Within the Explorer collection, there are two sub collections, the Explorer and Explorer II.

The Explorer is the original simple 3 hand watch that comes in multiple sizes, 36mm and 40mm. Rolex has fitted this sub collection with the updated in-house 3230 movement, which has an impressive power reserve, anti-magnetic, and keeps very precise time.When we wrote earlier about flying under the radar, it was these models that I was referencing. They are very simple yet very appealing to anyone who wants to own a Rolex but doesn’t want to be seen with one.

The Explorer II has a GMT complication that features an orange GMT hand and fixed bezel. In Rolex current production, the Explorer II only comes in two variations, a black and white dial. This sub collection has a 42 diameter, made only from stainless steel, and is powered by the 70 hour power reserve in-house calibre 3285 movement.

Specs

Case Diameter: 40 or 42mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3230 or 3285
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Explorer References

Rolex Yacht Master

Rolex Yacht Master Collection Overview

The Rolex Yacht Master embraces it’s nautical spirit and has become the water sport watch of choice. This collection is known for having a fun and sporty look all while at the same time being one of the toughest watches in the entire Rolex lineup. If you are trying to look stylish on the open water or are looking for a true sailing instrument, the Rolex Yacht Master collection is for you.

Within this collection there are watches made of high grade titanium, some that use platinum bezels, and others even have a regatta chronograph depending on which type of Yacht Master you observe. There are three types of Yacht Master watches, which include the Yacht Master, Yacht Master II, and the Yacht Master 42. Each are purpose built to perfectly accompany their owner in maritime situations.

Specs

Case Diameter: 37, 40, 42, or 44mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3285 or 4161
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Yacht Master References

Rolex Sky Dweller

2023 Rolex Sky Dweller New Release & Update

Rolex is a watch manufacture not known for high complication watches but that changed with the introduction of the Rolex Sky Dweller. The in-house 9002 calibre from Rolex powers the Sky Dweller and is responsible for not only having a perpetual calendar but also a GMT function for the world travelers. The  perpetual calendar function is subtle and satisfying to experience yet at first glance you may not even notice it. If you look closely at the outside of each indice you’ll notice there is a rotating dial that has a red indicator for the month of the year. This is an excellent execution of a usually busy complication.

The Sky Dweller collection has many different dial colors to choose from and is available stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold. These available combinations make the Sky Dweller a great watch to personalize to your style and budget.

Specs

Case Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 9002
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Sky Dweller References

Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Cheapest Rolex Mens Watch - Rolex OP

The entry level Rolex watch, but in reality its far from it, is the Rolex Oyster Perpetual. With the Rolex Oyster Perpetual being the cheapest Rolex watch starting at $6,400, this is an excellent choice for potential buyers who want to start experiencing the brand. Don’t let the price fool you though, the in-house Rolex calibre 3230 is the same movement power the Submariner and the 904L stainless steel is the same strong material used in every other collection.

What makes the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection popular among collectors is the available colorful dials. Some dials, like the bubble celebration dial, even include all of the available colors. The most popular reference within the Oyster Perpetual collection is the 41mm Tiffany Blue Dial. This particular model typically sells for 2-3x retail value is is highly sought after by Rolex collectors.

Oyster Perpetual watches are ideal for first time Rolex buyers or wearers who want to enjoy Rolex luxury but not necessarily want to attract the attention that other collections do.

Specs

Case Diameter: 21, 28,34, 36, or 41mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3230
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Oyster Perpetual References

Rolex Deepsea

Rolex Deepsea - Rolex Watches

The conquerer of the seas in the wrist watch world is none other than the Rolex Deepsea. Most famously being the watch of choice for James Cameron on his underwater explorations, the Rolex Deepsea was engineered to be the most trusted timepiece for deep sea adventures. So much so that Rolex manufactured one watch in this collection to actually withstand the pressure of the deepest depths of the ocean in the Mariana Trench at 11,000 meters or 36,090 feet.

Although many of us will never reach those types of depths, it feels nice to have a watch on the wrist that can withstand almost anything you put it through. With a more serious water resistance ratings come a slightly higher retail price compared to the other aquatic collections from Rolex, the Submariner and Sea Dweller. Rolex Deepsea watches range in price between $14,150 to $29,150 depending on the choice of titanium or stainless steel case construction and water resistance rating.

Specs

Case Diameter: 44 or 50mm
Water Resistance: 3,900 or 11,000m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3235 or 3230
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Deepsea Challenge References

Rolex Sea Dweller

Rolex Sea-Dweller Collection Overview

Although the Rolex Sea Dweller and Submariner look similar, they couldn’t be further apart with their robustness and under water exploration abilities. With a water resistance rating of over 4x the Submariner, the Rolex Sea Dweller’s dive depth rating of 1,220m is a more serious ocean adventure watch that can go places the Submariner couldn’t dream of.

The Rolex Sea Dweller collection only has two available references, one in stainless steel and the other being two tone yellow gold. Prices range between $13,250 and $18,000 depending on the case and bracelet material construction.

Specs

Case Diameter: 43mm
Water Resistance: 1,220m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3230
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Sea Dweller References

Rolex Day Date

Rolex Day Date 40 Ice Blue Dial

The watch that is most synonymous with luxury, success, and wealth within the Rolex watch universe is the Rolex Day Date, commonly also called the Rolex President. This collection is only offered offered in precious metals, which include yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum. This is also the only collection that has the day of the week complication that can be found at the 12 o’clock position on the dial. Rolex Day Date watches are available in two sizes, 36mm and 40mm, and have a wide variety of different gem setting to pick from. After analyzing all the different combination between precious metals and gems, it’s no wonder why the Rolex Day Date collection is considered an icon amongst luxury watches.

Specs

Case Diameter: 36 or 40mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3255
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Day Date References

Rolex Air King

Rolex Air King Collection Overview

The Rolex Air King collection stands out for its aviation heritage, originally being introduced in the 1940s as part of a series dedicated to British Royal Air Force pilots of World War II. The collection has a clean easy to read dial and features large 3, 6, and 9 numerals along with a minute scale for the rest of the indices. The design is unquestionably one of the more simpler from Rolex but is specifically tailored to aviators needs during flight.

Powered by the in-house calibre 3230 movement, the Rolex Air King is the symbol for precision and timekeeping excellence. With a power reserve of 70+ hours and accuracy rating of -2/+2 seconds per day, the Air King is unrivaled in the category of aviation watches. With a case size of 40mm, this watch is a perfect fit for most wrists, especially considering having the comfort fitting tapered oyster bracelet. The Air King’s ideal owner is one who is an aviation enthusiasts that also seeks an understated Rolex watch that will fly under the radar.

Specs

Case Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Crystal: Sapphire
Calibre: 3230
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Accuracy: +2/-2 seconds per day

View pricing for all Rolex Air King References

Rolex pricing

When it comes to Rolex, pricing is a big point of discussion and consideration when purchasing one. Topics surrounding Rolex pricing include retail pricing, pre-owned pricing, investment watches, cheapest Rolex, most expensive Rolex, which Rolex hold their value, and will their be price increases. All of those are valid questions because each of those topics/questions fluctuate fairly often. With market demand like the size of Rolex, pricing for Rolex watches will be very fluid and experienced buyers will know when the right time to buy and sell are. Let’s tackle some of the main topics or questions that surround Rolex pricing and provide accurate up to date responses.

How much is a Rolex: The price of a Rolex can vary widely depending on factors like materials, complications, and scarcity. The average retail cost of a Rolex watch is between $7,000 USD – $12,000 USD but can be as much as $84,100 USD. Discover the most up to date Rolex price list with our Rolex 2024 pricing guide.

What is the cheapest Rolex: The cheapest Rolex watch for men is the 36mm Oyster Perpetual costing $6,100 USD and the cheapest Rolex watch for women is the 28mm Oyser Perpetual costing $5,550 USD.

What is the most expensive Rolex: The most expensive Rolex is the platinum Daytona reference 126506 costing $84,100.

Which Rolex watches retain their value: The pre-owned market for Rolex watches is very fluid. Prices tend to fluctuate regularly depending on popularity, scarcity, and rumors. Overall it is safe to say that Rolex watches do very well retaining their value with some even selling more pre-owned compared to retail.

Why are Rolex so expensive: Rolex watches are luxury items that command a tremendous amount of demand. Those conditions made their product a premier item that is highly sought after, which in turn allows Rolex to charge a higher amount for their watches. It’s worth noting that even though Rolex watches are expensive, they are considered a great value.

What is the best investment Rolex: It is widely accepted that the stainless steel Daytona watches, reference 126500LN in white or black, are the best investment Rolex watches. These models have shown an ability to consistently sell at a multiple compared to their retail price on the pre-owned market in both up and down economic times.

Facts to know about Rolex

Rolex is a privately held non-profit business

Rolex is a non-profit entity, which may shock many because Rolex is one of the most successful companies in the world. This privately held business is a mystery behind closed doors with none of their financials being public. What is public is the charitable and environmental work they contribute to around the globe. If you are interested in Rolex perpetual initiatives, you can view them on their website.

Rolex is a Swiss watch manufacture

Even though Rolex was founded in London in 1905, the entire business is and has been located in Geneva Switzerland for most of its existence.

Rolex made the first wristwatch with a date complication

The Rolex Datejust was the first wristwatch with an automatic date change function, introduced in 1945. The cyclops magnification over the date is a celebration of this feat.

Rolex created the first waterproof wristwatch

With the invention of the Oyster Watch in 1926, Rolex was the first watchmaker to manufacture a waterproof wristwatch. This historic moment had a major influence the watchmaking industry and set new quality standards.

Rolex manufactured the first watch with 100m water resistance

Rolex was determined to have the watch of choice for underwater exploration and it achieved that with the Submariner. In 1953, the Rolex Submariner was the first wrist watch that could successfully dive 100 meters, withstanding impacts of pressure under water.

Rolex has a watch that is water resistant up to 11,000 meters

In 2022 Rolex released the Deepsea Challenge, a watch that could withstand water resistance up to 11,000 meters. Rolex literally built a watch to meet the specs of the deepest parts of the ocean, located in the Mariana Trench. One can say that Rolex has now conquered the seas and there is nowhere their watches can’t go.

Tudor is owned and operated by Rolex

Hans Wilsdorf not only founded Rolex but he also found Tudor. Hans was a brilliant businessman. His vision for Tudor was to provide high quality wrist watches, often at one time made in the same factories, at a slightly lower price point to attract more consumers. Today Tudor is known as a full luxury Swiss watch brand that creates highly sought after watches at a great value.

Rolex owns Bucherer and sells other watch brands

In 2023 Rolex shocked the luxury watch world with the announcement that they purchased one of the largest watch retailers, Bucherer. This was a very interesting play by Rolex because this means that they now own a large share of their distribution network and can now also profit off the sale of other luxury watch brands. For more on the acquisition, read our full article on the sale of Bucherer to Rolex.

Rolex has dominate marketshare for both revenue and unit volume sales in the luxury watch industry

The demand for Rolex watches is at an all time high. So high that even after producing an estimated 1.3 million watches a year, they still can’t satisfy the market. Since Rolex doesn’t release their annual sales we don’t have exact numbers but many analysts predict based on dealer sales, Rolex owns roughly 30% of the global market share of luxury watches. The next closest competitors are Omega and Cartier with about 7% each.

Did You Like This Article?

At Wrist Advisor, we offer honest and unbiased expert watch reviews on popular and interesting watches. We pride ourselves on being the expert authority on providing accurate information and in-depth analysis on the watches that our readers enjoy.

Our goal is to provide informed and insightful luxury watch reviews that are based on facts and research that our readers will find resourceful.

We appreciate being your trusted source of watch news, reviews, and much more. Thank you for allowing us to be a part of your horological journey.